Pane toscano
In Tuscany bread is baked without salt, and has been for centuries. Popular legend traces it to a medieval salt war between Florence and Pisa, another version to high taxes on salt. One thing is certain: unsalted bread balances salty Tuscan cured meats, pecorino and boldly seasoned dishes. Traditional pane toscano is made with sourdough; this home version uses a biga, a yeasted overnight preferment that adds aroma. The bread has a crackly crust and an irregular crumb with a gentle, wheaty flavour. It stales quickly, but then goes into ribollita, panzanella and pappa al pomodoro.
Your own work in that: 25 min.
- Overnight biga 720 min
- Kneading 15 min
- Bulk ferment with folds 90 min
- Shaping 10 min
- Proving 45 min
- Baking 40 min
- Cooling 60 min
Step by step
0 / 8 doneMake the biga overnight
Mix 200 g of flour, 120 ml of water and 0.5 g of yeast (about 1/8 teaspoon) into a stiff, shaggy dough. Cover and leave at room temperature 12–16 hours, until risen, domed and fragrant.
Ingredients: 200 g strong white bread flour · 120 ml water · 1 g dried yeast
Domed and fragrant — the biga is ready.Knead the dough
Tear the biga into pieces in the lukewarm water, add the flour and yeast and knead 10 minutes. Saltless dough is slacker and stickier than usual — that is normal, as salt strengthens gluten.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
Bulk ferment with folds
Cover and leave 1½ hours, folding 3 times every 20–30 minutes. Saltless dough rises faster, so watch it does not overprove — it should grow by about half.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
Folding strengthens the slack saltless dough.Shape an oval loaf
Turn the dough onto a floured worktop, fold the edges to the middle and roll into a tight oval loaf. Lay it seam up on a heavily floured cloth.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
A taut skin — the loaf holds its shape.Prove and heat the oven
Cover the loaf and leave 45 minutes. Meanwhile heat the oven to 240°C with a stone or tray inside and an empty tin on the oven floor.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
Transfer and slash
Turn the loaf seam down onto baking paper and slash it lengthwise with one decisive cut.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
Bake with steam
Slide the bread into the oven, pour a glass of boiling water into the tin and close the door. After 15 minutes remove the water tin, lower to 220°C and bake another 25 minutes, until the crust is deep golden.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
Cool and serve
Cool on a rack an hour. Serve with prosciutto, finocchiona, pecorino and olive oil, and use it stale in soups and salads.
Ingredients: 300 g strong white bread flour · 230 ml lukewarm water · 3 g dried yeast · 2 tbsp flour for dusting
Before you start
Why no salt
On its own, saltless bread tastes bland, but with salty Tuscan cured meats, anchovies, olives or sauces it strikes a balance. It also makes great toast: fettunta is a slice toasted, rubbed with garlic and drizzled with oil and salt.
Stale bread has its uses
Pane toscano goes stale after 2–3 days, but it is never thrown away: ribollita, panzanella and pappa al pomodoro are dishes built on stale bread.
Storage
Keep fresh bread in a paper bag or linen cloth. Do not seal it in plastic — the crust softens and the bread moulds more easily.
